What is encapsulated retinol? Its growing relevance in the cosmetic sector 

Encapsulated retinol: what it is and how it works

Benefits of microencapsulated retinol 

• Greater stability: Encapsulated retinol is less vulnerable to oxidation and degradation, extending the product’s shelf life. 

• Controlled release: It enables progressive action on the skin, improving results without overwhelming the epidermis. 

• Improved tolerance: Gradual release of the active ingredient helps reduce side effects such as irritation, redness or flaking. 

• Increased efficacy: Protecting the active until the moment of application maximises its impact on the skin. 

• Compatibility with various formulation phases: Capsules can be adapted to different formats (creams, serums, masks) without compromising final product stability. 

Techniques to obtain high-quality retinol capsules 

• Spray drying: This method produces powder-form microcapsules by spraying an emulsion or solution, followed by rapid drying. It’s ideal for sensitive ingredients like retinol, as it helps protect them and maintain their functionality. 

• Coacervation: This technique forms a membrane around the retinol through the interaction of oppositely charged polymers, resulting in uniform capsules with high control over active release. 

• Ionic gelation: Based on the reaction between certain biopolymers and gelling agents, this method produces stable, biodegradable microcapsules well-suited for delicate cosmetic formulations.

Differences between encapsulated and free retinol 

• Free retinol is directly exposed to the environment and tends to degrade rapidly when it comes into contact with light, oxygen or heat. This can reduce its effectiveness and increase the risk of adverse skin reactions. 
• Encapsulated retinol, on the other hand, maintains its integrity until the moment of application. It is released gradually, which improves its stability, efficacy and skin tolerance.