Index
What are consumers’ priorities in cosmetics?
- Authentic aroma: The fragrance must faithfully reflect the original raw material and preserve its characteristic profile throughout the entire product shelf life, strictly avoiding the development of rancid notes.
- Reproducible texture and sensory perception: Every package, every batch and every application must deliver the same sensory experience. This requires maintaining consistent aromatic intensity, application feel and appearance without variation.
- Sustainability and the new CSS profile: The Conscious, Supportive & Sustainable consumer demands responsible processes and products that protect both personal wellbeing and the planet. Sensory stability must be achieved without compromising sustainability, driving continuous innovation across the industry.
4 Factors that degrade the sensory profile of your extracts
The aromatic and chromatic stability of an extract depends directly on its chemical integrity. When active and volatile compounds begin to degrade, aroma loses definition, undesirable notes emerge and colour is altered.
In the following sections, we analyse how this degradation manifests from a sensory perspective and which factors exacerbate each mechanism.
1. Oxidation: the most common trigger of aroma loss
Oxidation is the primary degradation pathway for cosmetic ingredients, particularly in extracts rich in:
- Terpenes
- Phenolic compounds
- Unsaturated lipids
The presence of oxygen, light and trace metals catalyses autoxidation reactions, generating peroxides and volatile by-products responsible for rancid or off-odours.
Sensory impact
- Loss of fresh notes
- Appearance of metallic or rancid nuances
- Reduction in aromatic intensity
- Colour alteration due to oxidation products
Aggravating factors
- Oxygen-permeable packaging
- Exposure of blends to air
- Presence of metal ions (Fe, Cu)
- High water activity
2. Photodegradation: light as a silent agent of deterioration
Photodegradation particularly affects:
- Aromatic molecules
- Carotenoids
- Flavonoids
- Natural colourants
Exposure to UV or visible radiation triggers photochemical reactions that break chemical bonds and transform volatile compounds.
Sensory impact
- Colour fading or shift towards brown tones
- Decrease in aromatic potency
- Formation of unpleasant-smelling by-products
Aggravating factors
- Transparent packaging without UV filters
- Prolonged storage on illuminated shelves
- Processing in high-intensity lighting environments
3. Thermal degradation: volatilisation and decomposition at high temperature
Temperature is one of the most critical parameters for sensory stability. Even moderate increases:
- Accelerate chemical reactions
- Promote volatilisation of light compounds
Sensory impact
- Loss of low-molecular-weight aromatic fractions
- Simplification of the aromatic profile
- Formation of degradation compounds that alter odour and colour
Aggravating factors
- Conventional high-temperature extraction processes
- Aggressive drying methods
- Storage or transport under fluctuating thermal conditions
4. Matrix interactions: reactivity, pH and incompatibilities
Cosmetic ingredients may degrade due to:
- Hydrolysis
- pH variations
- Interaction with surfactants, lipids or metals
These interactions modify the chemical structure of the extract and, consequently, its sensory profile.
Sensory impact
- Decrease in aromatic intensity
- Odour changes caused by secondary reactions
- Loss of stability in emulsions or gels
Aggravating factors
- Extreme pH conditions
- Reactive surfactants or polymers
- Presence of water as a hydrolysis medium
- Catalytic metals in the formulation
